Along the young Thur: hiking, grilling and paddling in Toggenburg

There is one thread that runs through the whole of Toggenburg: the Thur. It begins high up on the Churfirsten and the Säntis as a small, lively mountain stream and slowly grows as it makes its way down the valley. Up here with us it is still young, clear and shallow, and that is exactly what makes it the finest playground and walking companion you could wish for on a family day. No big plans, no long journey: just out to the water.

The Laui fire pit: for young and old

Our favourite spot for an easy afternoon is in Unterwasser, only a few minutes from us: the Laui fire pit (Brätlistelle Laui). Here the Säntisthur curves in a wide arc around the site, and in many stretches it is so shallow that children can safely wade, splash and float little boats.

For grilling there are two fire pits, plus a covered supply of wood and newspaper, so you barely need to bring anything except sausages, bread and good spirits. A small kiosk (run in aid of the youth section of Schnee Sport Churfirsten Toggenburg) is open on fine days. And while the sausages sizzle over the embers, the children romp on the playground with its swings, climbing tower and slide. “For young and old” really does mean for young and old here.

By the way: the walk up to the Gräppelensee also starts from the Laui, if you like, you can combine the two.

Photo: Toggenburg Tourismus

The Thurweg from Stein to Nesslau

If you would rather walk a stretch, one of the loveliest sections of the Thurweg is further down the valley. The full Thurweg follows the Thur through the whole of Toggenburg for around 60 kilometres, and the stage from Stein to Nesslau is gentle, largely flat and therefore ideal for families.

From Alt St. Johann, Stein and Nesslau are a short outing down the valley, easiest by post bus (line 790 between Nesslau and Stein). From the bus stop in Stein you pass the church, cross the Thur, and there you are on the riverside path. From then on the murmur of the water is with you: a gravel path right beside the river, an old stone arch bridge with a bench for a rest, the quiet Bratzenmoos moorland, woodland and meadows.

One special place along the way is the “Inseli”, a small island in the Thur with a chapel and a fire pit, reached by a pretty wooden bridge. And again and again, flat gravel banks open up where you can dangle your feet in the cool water, or slip right in on a hot day. Slow Travel at its best: not as far as possible, but as close to the water as possible.

Photo: Toggenburg Tourismus

Why the water belongs to it

For us the Thur is more than a river. It is the lifeline of the valley. On hot summer days it cools you down, on quiet autumn days it rushes through the golden woods, and for children it is an endless adventure of stones, little boats and cold feet.

The lovely thing, when you stay with us in Louisa’s Loft or Louisa’s Gallery in the historic SutterSport building in Alt St. Johann: all of this is practically on the doorstep. An afternoon at the Laui, a walk along the Thurweg, and in the evening you’re back on the sofa or in the hot tub, your legs pleasantly tired, the murmur of the water still in your ears. About an hour from Zurich, and yet in another, slower world.