Hiking the Saxerlücke: the most beautiful Alpstein walk, with Fälensee and Bollenwees

There are places where you stop for a moment and simply fall quiet. The Saxerlücke is one of them. Anyone who walks along the ridge and suddenly stands before this narrow rock gateway, with the slabs of the Kreuzberge rising almost vertically into the sky behind it, understands at once why this corner of the Alpstein is among the most photographed in Switzerland. And the lovely part: up here you share it with far fewer people than elsewhere.

For us, the Saxerlücke is the very essence of “Hidden Switzerland”, the landscape is every bit as grand as in neighbouring Appenzell, just a shade wilder, quieter and more honest. From Alt St. Johann and the Toggenburg, the Alpstein lies practically on the doorstep.

And that is one of the reasons we love Alt St. Johann so much. Anyone staying with us at Stay with Louisa, in Louisa’s Loft or Louisa’s Gallery, in the historic SutterSport building at Hauptstrasse 36, has the Alpstein right around the corner. The public-transport stop is a two-minute walk away, and from there bus and train take you comfortably around; for the Saxerlücke you drive from Alt St. Johann over Wildhaus into the St. Galler Rheintal to Frümsen, about half an hour. So a day’s hiking can begin, wonderfully unhurried, right from our doorstep, coffee poured, pack shouldered, off you go.

Photo: Staubern

Hiking the Saxerlücke: what makes this route so special

The Saxerlücke is a natural notch in the rock at around 1,650 metres. Here the rugged Kreuzberge meet, their walls dropping almost vertically for several hundred metres into the St. Galler Rheintal. You stand on a slender ridge between two worlds: behind you the wide Alpstein with its gentle Alpine pastures, before you the abrupt plunge into the valley. It is this contrast that makes the place so unforgettable.

The starting point is the Staubernbahn, the cable car from Frümsen up to Staubern. It has just been rebuilt and is the world’s first solar-powered, energy- and environmentally neutral cable car, for us a lovelier, more fitting experience than the Hoher Kasten. The ride takes about eight minutes, and tickets are only available on site. From the top station by the Berggasthaus Staubern (around 1,750 m) you walk along the ridge, over the Furgglenfirst, to the Saxerlücke. As you walk, you pass through millions of years of the earth’s history, the folded rock layers lie open here like a book. On a clear day the view stretches far: across to the Altmann and the Säntis in the west, out over the St. Galler Rheintal and all the way to Lake Constance.

The high trail itself is well maintained and technically manageable (roughly T2). Anyone descending steeply from the Saxerlücke down into the Rheintal, or over the other side to the Sämtisersee, should bring a sure foot and good fitness. Sturdy mountain boots are no luxury here. They are essential.

Fälensee and Bollenwees: the quiet highlight

Descend from the Saxerlücke into the heart of the Alpstein and you are rewarded with one of the most beautiful mountain lakes in the range: the Fälensee. Wedged between the steep flanks of the Widderalpstöcke, the Hundstein and the Kreuzberge, its almost black water lies there like a fjord in the Alps. Depending on the light, the rock walls mirror themselves in it, and the silence is almost tangible.

Right by the lake, at around 1,471 metres, stands the Berggasthaus Bollenwees. From its sun terrace you look out over the Fälensee, with the famous Rösti that, at this altitude, is almost obligatory. Behind the guesthouse, a path also leads to a viewpoint from which you can see the lake from above. A moment that makes the whole climb worthwhile.

Well into summer, the shady slope is often still flecked with patches of old snow, while opposite, on the sunny side, gentians and Alpine forget-me-nots are in bloom. Slow Travel in its purest form: no rushing, just looking, breathing it in, lingering.

Who is this walk for?

Honestly: the Saxerlücke is no gentle stroll. It is a proper mountain hike, with plenty of ascent, exposed passages and long stages, a good half to full day, depending on the variant. It is ideal for experienced walkers with a sure foot and stamina. If you prefer something more relaxed, you can also reach the Berggasthaus Bollenwees and the Fälensee by easier paths from Brülisau, without the steep ridge.

The best time is roughly between June and October, when the trails are free of snow and the mountain railways are running. Take plenty of water, check the weather beforehand and set off early. That way you’ll often have the most spectacular viewpoints almost to yourself. Setting off early is especially easy from Alt St. Johann: straight from our place you can head towards the trailhead by public transport or car in no time, and the little grocery shop two minutes away is perfect for picking up provisions the evening before.

Coming back down into the valley after a day like that in the mountains, you learn to appreciate a quiet place to call home. That is exactly why we created Louisa’s Loft and Gallery in the historic SutterSport building in Alt St. Johann: to put tired legs up, your head still full of rock and light, and decide the next morning which piece of the Toggenburg to explore next.